Monday, April 13, 2009

Trois Pistoles: Apocalypse Now!

I have a love-hate relationship with BevMo! No need to go into the hate aspect of that relationship here when I can dwell so much on the love. A big part of that love is being able to lose myself in BevMo!’s beer aisles where I can fondle the substantial selection of brews that are not in the cooler at the local Quickie Mart. It’s like being in a library for beer. There are beers from the United Kingdom, Germany, Belgium, Italy, Australia, Asia, Mexico and all points beyond. There is also a big selection of American craft beers. Sigh. So much beer, so little time.

Lately, I’ve become fixated on the aisle featuring beer from Canada. Specifically, I’ve become enamored with the offerings from the French Canadian brewer Unibroue whose motto is “Drink Less, Drink Better.” One of the things I like about Unibroue’s beers, in addition to the amazing taste, is that they are all natural and contain no chemicals or preservatives.

So when I recently found myself on BevMo!’s Canadian beer aisle once again, I reached for a bottle of Unibroue’s Trois Pistoles which, categorically speaking, is a Belgian Style Strong Ale. The concoction comes in a big, dark 25.4 oz. bottle decorated with an artistic yet foreboding label with heavy apocalyptic overtones.

After I got home and had cooled my purchase, I re-examined the label and then hesitated a bit before popping the cork. What was Unibroue trying to tell me? Was I on the verge of unleashing the four horsemen here? Ultimately, thirst triumphed over fear for my everlasting soul, so I threw caution to the wind and unleashed the beast.

Out of the bottle, Trois Pistoles pours a deep and opaque mahogany color with a sturdy and thick cream-colored head. The aroma is raisins and spice and everything nice with a distinct whiff of coriander and subtle hints of caramel and chocolate. The taste is bold, sparkly and dry. Sweet malt infused with fruit and spice dominate the flavor profile with caramel and chocolate playing supporting roles. There is a pleasant warming the deeper you go into the glass and the beer finishes with a Port-like fade.

Despite its dark imagery, beer saints will rejoice upon sampling Trois Pistoles. It is surprisingly drinkable for a beer of its hue and strength, but it is definitely not a session beer. Instead, it is a beer to be smelled, sipped and savored like fine wine in order to appreciate its considerable complexity. In fact, it would be wonderful in place of wine either as an aperitif or as a Port or Sherry substitute.

So what’s the final judgment on Trois Pistoles? Well, if breaking the seal on this bottle unleashes God’s fury, then I say “Apocalypse Now!” 9 out of 10.

The vitals:
Beer: Trois Pistoles
Brewery: Unibroue
Style: Belgian Style Strong Ale
Alcohol: 9.0%
Size: 1 Pt. 9.4 oz.
Price: $6.49 (on sale) at BevMo!